A Zetec Engine for my 72 Lotus Europa

I am currently substituting a 2.0L Zetec engine from a 2000 Ford Focus in place of the 1.6L Lotus/Ford twin-cam engine. Regular progress updates may be found below. I am also keeping a cost summary of the conversion process.

Mar 5, 2005 Finally got to start the engine! I don't have the radiator hooked up, and only have a 1 liter fuel tank, but it was great to hear it run. Doesn't sound like any Focus I've ever heard. So far, I've just been tracking down little bugs and several coolant leaks.
Table saw makes a nice monitor stand, doesn't it?! :-)

Feb 10, 2005 Picked up an array of AN-6 fuel fittings from Oil Filter Service for doing all of the fuel lines. The photo also shows the parts for the surge tank - 3-1/2" diamater aluminum tube plus two end plates that I made.

Feb 3, 2005 Received my Innovate LM-1 lambda sensor kit. This contains all of the pieces needed to install a wide-band O2 sensor in the exhaust and read the output. The a/f ratio can also be sent as a DC voltage to the Emerald ECU for display and recording.
Worked on some more wiring - connected injector and coil B+ to fuse box, routed fuel pump relay wires, connected a few grounds.

Jan 28, 2005 Picked up a new Lucas starter drive from Faulkner. The new drive is on the right and has a 10 tooth pinion instead of the stock 9 tooth. It is also 2.5mm smaller in diameter which should very nearly make up for the flywheel diameter difference (11.293" vs 11.2"). Here's a closeup of the two starter drives in case you want to double-check the tooth count.

Jan 25, 2005 Removed material from the left-hand trailing arm mount stiffener plate where the lower rod end on the gearshift cross tree was hitting it in 3rd and 5th gears.

Jan 24, 2005 Temporarily installed the modified throttle pedal bracket in the car. Looks like it will work perfectly. I will remove and paint it and then it's ready to go. Here's a better comparison of the old and new throttle cable attachment brackets.

Jan 23, 2005 Engine end of new Morse throttle cable installation. I made the brass piece at the top to fit into the throttle lever on the TWM throttle bodies. The compression-style throttle return spring was motivated by Dave Miller's Formula Atlantic and is a very nice solution. The cable mounting bracket is attached to the frame rail. I am hoping that this does not cause a problem because of vibration between the engine and frame. If it does, then I will probably move the cable mount to the engine mounting bracket.

Jan 23, 2005 Notched the frame rail on the right hand side near the firewall to provide clearance for the engine accesory belt. I had done this once before, but did not make the notch large enough.

Jan 8, 2005 After an extended email discussion with Karl at Emerald, I learned that the ECU coolant sensor is to be installed at the rear end of the Raceline water rail, but the larger sensor hole must be enlarged and threaded to M12x1.5. Apparently Raceline does this automatically if you tell them you are going to do fuel injection, but at that time, I was still planning to use carbs, so that caused all the confusion.

Dec 22-23, 2005 Temporarily installed bellhousing, gearbox and rear suspension to check fit, etc. Found a bit of carpet stuck underneath the clutch/brake pedal mounting bracket, plus a couple missing nuts. Fixing these problems greatly improved the clutch operation, although the effort is still quite high. The cable should be OK for now, but I think I want to switch to hydralic long-term.

Nov 28, 2004 Made some paper gaskets to go between the airbox backing plate and the throttle bodies. Also a closeup of the work I had to do to the airbox to get the middle two airhorns to fit. Cylinder #3 required a small amount of filing to the airhorn as well.

Nov 27, 2004 Mounted the ECU air temperature sensor from Emerald to the airbox and attached the connector to the wiring harness. Also permanantly mounted the throttle bodies to the intake manifold adapter. Tested the operation of the clutch - not as good as I might like, although it is possible to make it disengage.

Nov 6, 2004 Installed the freshly painted dust shield and the flywheel.

Nov 5, 2004 Lee (racergt) mentioned to me that the aluminum housing that holds the flywheel position sensor is different for automatic vs manual flywheels. Since my donor Focus was an automatic, I need a new housing. The one on the left is the automatic version and the one on the right is the new manual style. The main differences are that the sensor protrudes further from the new housing and the orientation is slightly different. The manual housing can be purchased at any Ford dealer and is p/n F5RZ-6K341-A.

Apr 9, 2004 Coolant transfer pipes painted with POR-15.

Feb 15, 2004 Coolant transfer pipes are ready to be painted. I have put AN-6 braze-on fittings on each of them to allow coolant to be drained easily from the engine compartment - no more pulling off the radiator hoses and having coolant everywhere. Here is a closeup of the interesting end where you can see the drain fittings better. I've also been working on a new shifter stick so that I can complete at least the front linkage tube and an aluminum battery box for my new Odyssey PC680 battery.

May 22, 2004 Took new Raceline clutch disk and a stock Lotus T/C clutch disk to Ott's Friction in Portland and had them swap the center sections. The bunch of pieces on the right is the now-disassembled T/C disk and center section from the Raceline disk. The left disk is the newly assembled unit that I will use on the car.

Mar 2, 2004 Received order from Raceline (finally!). This is the pressure plate and clutch disk to match the flywheel I ordered earlier. I also got an engine breather kit.

Jan 14, 2004 Found a good deal on a pair of 45mm TWM throttle bodies, so I have no decided to go directly to fuel injection and skip the carburetor step. Here are some closeups of the pair and a single throttle body. You can see the Emerald ECU mounted to the firewall in the background (yes, I know it is upside down - it makes the connector access easier).

Sep 6-7, 2003 Working on my exhaust manifold. I am using mandrel bent tubing sections from the Chassis Shop. I am building a tri-Y exhaust with 1-3/4" primary tubes which join into a pair of 2" tubes, which then join to a final diameter of 2-1/4". The Y for cylinders 2 & 3 is done, and I am working on the joint for cylinders 1 & 4. I am using the stock Focus exhaust flange after cutting off the old tubes and boring out the cylinder holes. Check my exhaust page for more details and updated pictures.

Aug 9-10, 2003 Sorted out my coolant plumbing issues. I have re-directed the water pump inlet slightly downwards and use a 135° silicon coolant hose to turn the corner back towards the lower coolant pipe. The rear shift tube will run just inside this bend. Here's another comparison of the pump housings. I have made a custom 1-3/8" diameter pipe to route the end of this hose to the coolant pipe running through the frame, which I have shortened slightly (removing the upward bend). I still need to reduce the diameter of the custom pipe to 1-1/4" so I can use a short piece of straight hose to join the two.

Aug 6, 2003 My ECU from Emerald arrived today including a wiring harness they made up for me. Lee suggested longer wires (8-9') to reach the dash better, so I asked for this on mine. I think there is room to mount the ECU on the upper right side of the firewall, just inside the seat belt cross brace. I also got a throttle potentiometer for 3D mapping, but I will need to make my own bracket to mount it to the Dellorto carbs I plan to use.

Jun 28, 2003 Fixed the engine mounts from Joe Irwin to work in my car. Spent a lot of time measuring and staring at the engine in the car and found that with the mounts as sent, the engine was rotated significantly. Played with different shims on both mounts, scratched my head some more, and finally determined that I could correct the problems by modifying only the LH mount. I first notched the mount and bent it to the necessary angle and then welded up the remaining notch. I am also using a 1/8" spacer on the left side and a 3/8" spacer on the right to get the engine perfectly centered.

Jun 16, 2003 New 4-way brake union from dave bean engineering was just the thing to fix the inteference between the brake light switch and the water pump pulley. This is actually the union used on an S2 Europa, and I learned from Lee that in order to fit the Zetec into his S2, he had to get a T/C union. If we had known earlier, we could have just traded!

Jun 1, 2003 Did the first test fit of the new engine in the car. In general, it looks pretty good, but there are a few minor issues. Clearance at the front and above the engine is excellent. The sump pan hangs noticeably below the body, but I forgot to measure how much. I plan to compare the engine mount to sump distance to that of my T/C engine to see how much lower it is. The area around the water pump is somewhat tighter. Here are pictures of some of the critical areas of concern.

May 29, 2003 Received my flywheel and exhaust flange from Raceline. I was hoping that the stock T/C clutch and pressure plate would fit, but the clutch cover mounting holes don't quite line up (it's very close). My plan now is to see what the local Ford dealer has to offer. I also got the missing mounting bracket for the water rail, but I still can't see how it is supposed to go together. I am hoping to find someone who is using this kit and can tell me what to do.

Apr 24-29, 2003 Working on mounting bracket for Geo alternator. Here are some of the steps along the way: the parts, first weld done, second weld done, spacers welded to the back, and finally, the plans. I had the alternator tested at NAPA and found that it's in perfect working condition and puts out a max of 74 amps (rated at 55)! After MANY more trips back and forth to NAPA, I found a accessory drive belt which works - 42" is the answer!

Apr 3, 2003 Cutting the steel dust shield to shape from my paper pattern. I used a combination of a small air-powered hacksaw and my sabre saw with a metal-cutting blade. Then an angle grinder and files to get to the final shape. All I have left is to drill the holes and probably some fine tuning once it is in place.

Apr 3, 2003 Received order from Racer Parts Wholesale. This is the AN plumbing needed to mount and connect the remote oil filter.

Mar 25, 2003 Finished cleanup of intake manifold. Had to remove a little material around the cylinder head temperature sender and at the right-hand end of the manifold because of intereference with the timing belt cover. I used a small bead of Loctite 518 around each intake port on the head. The carb mounting studs are held in place with a dab of medium strength Loctite. Also cleaned up the lower (cast alloy) crankcase and reattached to block, reusing the gasket. Bolted the oil pickup back into place.

Mar 22, 2003 Made overlayed tracings of the T/C and Zetec dust shields that mount between the engine block and the bellhousing. The pink is the T/C dust shield and the blue is the Zetec (two-piece) shield. The short green segments show where the T/C bellhousing outline differs significantly from the shape of the T/C dust shield. Note, for instance, that the dust shield has three starter mounting bolt locations, but the bellhousing has only two. I plan to make a paper template for test fitting from this drawing of a "composite" dust shield which will combine the best elements of each and then make the real one from 18 gauge steel.

Mar 18, 2003 Received remote oil filter takeoff plate from Canton Racing Products (#22-595). A remote oil filter is required because of the close proximity of the frame. The adapter extends only 2" from the filter mounting surface as opposed to the nearly 4½" of the stock oil filter. The ports are ½" NPT which will be adapted to AN-10 fittings. Here's a look from the underside.

Mar 13, 2003 Received engine mounts from Joe Irwin. The exhaust side mount (left in photo) fits well to the engine. One of the four mounting locations cannot be used on my newer engine. The intake side mount (right) will require some minor adjustment in the hole locations.

Mar 11, 2003 Finally figured out how the Raceline water pump idler pulley kit goes together. The pulley in the picture is the idler pulley taken from the alternator mounting bracket. If I have this correctly, then the bolts supplied are a little shorter than I might like, but easy enough to change out. The middle timing belt cover will no longer fit as intended, however, since the idler pulley bracket is designed to bolt directly to the engine. I am thinking I will machine off the back side of the timing cover to the same depth as the bracket thickness so that the bracket will be sandwiched between the cover and the engine.

Mar 7-9, 2003 Lots of progress cleaning up the intake manifold. Two of the ports are nearly finished. The other two have some serious pitting which cannot be polished out, so I am considering using JB Weld to fill in the pits and then grinding back down to the correct shape.

Mar 6, 2003 Received order from Raceline. The water rail kit looks very nice. I tried fitting it to the head, but I do not understand how the front end is supposed to attach. On the phone, they mentioned a piece to help with this, but I could find no such thing. Also, the kit for the water pump pulley has no instructions, just a little pile of parts (lower right in photo). I will have to call them back in order to make sense of it. I believe that you use the idler pulley from the stock alternator and mount the bracket to one of the timing cover bolts, but cannot be certain how they intended it to work.

Mar 4, 2003 Received order from Burton Power. The intake manifold looks nice, but is not flat along its length. I have sanded it down using a piece of plate glass and various grits of wet/dry sandpaper. It now fits the head much better. Also the intake runners are very rough on the inside. I will polish them up. The port on the head side of the manifold is somewhat smaller than in the head, but it would be difficult to enlarge it much without substantially weakening the casting. Package also contained the carburetor O-ring mounts. Brady Joy recommended NOT using the plastic spacer with O-rings on both sides, but to simply use the single "Misab" metal-bonded O-ring instead.

Mar 2, 2003 Machined a 17mm to 15mm reducer from brass to adapt the Focus alternator pulley to the Geo Metro alternator shaft. Note how much smaller the Geo alternator is than the Focus alternator plus all of its bracketry. I still need to work out exactly how to make the bracket to mount this new alternator and whether or not to use the existing idler pulley that mounts to the engine.

Feb 26-28, 2003 Moved the engine onto an engine stand. Removed the sheet metal oil pan and alloy sump. Still not sure why the pan is leaking - maybe it will be more obvious once I clean it completely. Marked the T/C bellhousing starter location on the sump and started removing the extra "ear" in that area. Finished removing extra metal from sump where starter fits. Cleaned oil pan side of sump. Cleaned oil pan - leak may be becuase of worn O-ring on drain plug.

Feb 23, 2003 Made measurements of the bolt locations suitable for engine mounts to send to Joe Irwin. He will compare with the mounts he has made for his earlier engine and make a set for me if it looks like they will line up. Here are full scale drawings of the intake and exhaust mount locations.

Feb 20, 2003 Talked to Raceline and Burton Power on the phone. Ordered the water rail kit and water pump pulley kit from Raceline and an intake manifold and Dellorto rebuild kits from Burton.

Feb 13, 2003 Picked up 2.0L Zetec engine from a 2000 Ford Focus at the CWX teminal in Wilsonville. Removed all the excess baggage - power steering pump, exhaust manifold and muffler, air conditioning compressor, intake manifold Engine looks to be in pretty good shape except that the sheet metal sump leaks from somewhere near the drain plug.


	Feb 10, 2005 Picked up an array of AN-6 fuel fittings from Oil Filter Service for doing all of the fuel lines. The photo also shows the parts for the surge tank - 3-1/2" diamater aluminum tube plus two end plates that I made.
	Feb 3, 2005 Received my Innovate LM-1 lambda sensor kit. This contains all of the pieces needed to install a wide-band O2 sensor in the exhaust and read the output. The a/f ratio can also be sent as a DC voltage to the Emerald ECU for display and recording. Worked on some more wiring - connected injector and coil B+ to fuse box, routed fuel pump relay wires, connected a few grounds.
	Jan 28, 2005 Picked up a new Lucas starter drive from Faulkner. The new drive is on the right and has a 10 tooth pinion instead of the stock 9 tooth. It is also 2.5mm smaller in diameter which should very nearly make up for the flywheel diameter difference (11.293" vs 11.2"). Here's a closeup of the two starter drives in case you want to double-check the tooth count.
	Jan 25, 2005 Removed material from the left-hand trailing arm mount stiffener plate where the lower rod end on the gearshift cross tree was hitting it in 3rd and 5th gears.
	Jan 24, 2005 Temporarily installed the modified throttle pedal bracket in the car. Looks like it will work perfectly. I will remove and paint it and then it's ready to go. Here's a better comparison of the old and new throttle cable attachment brackets.
	Jan 23, 2005 Engine end of new Morse throttle cable installation. I made the brass piece at the top to fit into the throttle lever on the TWM throttle bodies. The compression-style throttle return spring was motivated by Dave Miller's Formula Atlantic and is a very nice solution. The cable mounting bracket is attached to the frame rail. I am hoping that this does not cause a problem because of vibration between the engine and frame. If it does, then I will probably move the cable mount to the engine mounting bracket.
	Jan 23, 2005 Notched the frame rail on the right hand side near the firewall to provide clearance for the engine accesory belt. I had done this once before, but did not make the notch large enough.
	Jan 8, 2005 After an extended email discussion with Karl at Emerald, I learned that the ECU coolant sensor is to be installed at the rear end of the Raceline water rail, but the larger sensor hole must be enlarged and threaded to M12x1.5. Apparently Raceline does this automatically if you tell them you are going to do fuel injection, but at that time, I was still planning to use carbs, so that caused all the confusion.
	Dec 22-23, 2005 Temporarily installed bellhousing, gearbox and rear suspension to check fit, etc. Found a bit of carpet stuck underneath the clutch/brake pedal mounting bracket, plus a couple missing nuts. Fixing these problems greatly improved the clutch operation, although the effort is still quite high. The cable should be OK for now, but I think I want to switch to hydralic long-term.
	Nov 28, 2004 Made some paper gaskets to go between the airbox backing plate and the throttle bodies. Also a closeup of the work I had to do to the airbox to get the middle two airhorns to fit. Cylinder #3 required a small amount of filing to the airhorn as well.
	Nov 27, 2004 Mounted the ECU air temperature sensor from Emerald to the airbox and attached the connector to the wiring harness. Also permanantly mounted the throttle bodies to the intake manifold adapter. Tested the operation of the clutch - not as good as I might like, although it is possible to make it disengage.
	Nov 6, 2004 Installed the freshly painted dust shield and the flywheel.
	Nov 5, 2004 Lee (racergt) mentioned to me that the aluminum housing that holds the flywheel position sensor is different for automatic vs manual flywheels. Since my donor Focus was an automatic, I need a new housing. The one on the left is the automatic version and the one on the right is the new manual style. The main differences are that the sensor protrudes further from the new housing and the orientation is slightly different. The manual housing can be purchased at any Ford dealer and is p/n F5RZ-6K341-A.
	Apr 9, 2004 Coolant transfer pipes painted with POR-15.
	Feb 15, 2004 Coolant transfer pipes are ready to be painted. I have put AN-6 braze-on fittings on each of them to allow coolant to be drained easily from the engine compartment - no more pulling off the radiator hoses and having coolant everywhere. Here is a closeup of the interesting end where you can see the drain fittings better. I've also been working on a new shifter stick so that I can complete at least the front linkage tube and an aluminum battery box for my new Odyssey PC680 battery.
	May 22, 2004 Took new Raceline clutch disk and a stock Lotus T/C clutch disk to Ott's Friction in Portland and had them swap the center sections. The bunch of pieces on the right is the now-disassembled T/C disk and center section from the Raceline disk. The left disk is the newly assembled unit that I will use on the car.
	Mar 2, 2004 Received order from Raceline (finally!). This is the pressure plate and clutch disk to match the flywheel I ordered earlier. I also got an engine breather kit.
	Jan 14, 2004 Found a good deal on a pair of 45mm TWM throttle bodies, so I have no decided to go directly to fuel injection and skip the carburetor step. Here are some closeups of the pair and a single throttle body. You can see the Emerald ECU mounted to the firewall in the background (yes, I know it is upside down - it makes the connector access easier).
	Sep 6-7, 2003 Working on my exhaust manifold. I am using mandrel bent tubing sections from the Chassis Shop. I am building a tri-Y exhaust with 1-3/4" primary tubes which join into a pair of 2" tubes, which then join to a final diameter of 2-1/4". The Y for cylinders 2 & 3 is done, and I am working on the joint for cylinders 1 & 4. I am using the stock Focus exhaust flange after cutting off the old tubes and boring out the cylinder holes. Check my exhaust page for more details and updated pictures.
	Aug 9-10, 2003 Sorted out my coolant plumbing issues. I have re-directed the water pump inlet slightly downwards and use a 135° silicon coolant hose to turn the corner back towards the lower coolant pipe. The rear shift tube will run just inside this bend. Here's another comparison of the pump housings. I have made a custom 1-3/8" diameter pipe to route the end of this hose to the coolant pipe running through the frame, which I have shortened slightly (removing the upward bend). I still need to reduce the diameter of the custom pipe to 1-1/4" so I can use a short piece of straight hose to join the two.
	Aug 6, 2003 My ECU from Emerald arrived today including a wiring harness they made up for me. Lee suggested longer wires (8-9') to reach the dash better, so I asked for this on mine. I think there is room to mount the ECU on the upper right side of the firewall, just inside the seat belt cross brace. I also got a throttle potentiometer for 3D mapping, but I will need to make my own bracket to mount it to the Dellorto carbs I plan to use.
	Jun 28, 2003 Fixed the engine mounts from Joe Irwin to work in my car. Spent a lot of time measuring and staring at the engine in the car and found that with the mounts as sent, the engine was rotated significantly. Played with different shims on both mounts, scratched my head some more, and finally determined that I could correct the problems by modifying only the LH mount. I first notched the mount and bent it to the necessary angle and then welded up the remaining notch. I am also using a 1/8" spacer on the left side and a 3/8" spacer on the right to get the engine perfectly centered.
	Jun 16, 2003 New 4-way brake union from dave bean engineering was just the thing to fix the inteference between the brake light switch and the water pump pulley. This is actually the union used on an S2 Europa, and I learned from Lee that in order to fit the Zetec into his S2, he had to get a T/C union. If we had known earlier, we could have just traded!
	Jun 1, 2003 Did the first test fit of the new engine in the car. In general, it looks pretty good, but there are a few minor issues. Clearance at the front and above the engine is excellent. The sump pan hangs noticeably below the body, but I forgot to measure how much. I plan to compare the engine mount to sump distance to that of my T/C engine to see how much lower it is. The area around the water pump is somewhat tighter. Here are pictures of some of the critical areas of concern.
	May 29, 2003 Received my flywheel and exhaust flange from Raceline. I was hoping that the stock T/C clutch and pressure plate would fit, but the clutch cover mounting holes don't quite line up (it's very close). My plan now is to see what the local Ford dealer has to offer. I also got the missing mounting bracket for the water rail, but I still can't see how it is supposed to go together. I am hoping to find someone who is using this kit and can tell me what to do.
	Apr 24-29, 2003 Working on mounting bracket for Geo alternator. Here are some of the steps along the way: the parts, first weld done, second weld done, spacers welded to the back, and finally, the plans. I had the alternator tested at NAPA and found that it's in perfect working condition and puts out a max of 74 amps (rated at 55)! After MANY more trips back and forth to NAPA, I found a accessory drive belt which works - 42" is the answer!
	Apr 3, 2003 Cutting the steel dust shield to shape from my paper pattern. I used a combination of a small air-powered hacksaw and my sabre saw with a metal-cutting blade. Then an angle grinder and files to get to the final shape. All I have left is to drill the holes and probably some fine tuning once it is in place.
	Apr 3, 2003 Received order from Racer Parts Wholesale. This is the AN plumbing needed to mount and connect the remote oil filter.
	Mar 25, 2003 Finished cleanup of intake manifold. Had to remove a little material around the cylinder head temperature sender and at the right-hand end of the manifold because of intereference with the timing belt cover. I used a small bead of Loctite 518 around each intake port on the head. The carb mounting studs are held in place with a dab of medium strength Loctite. Also cleaned up the lower (cast alloy) crankcase and reattached to block, reusing the gasket. Bolted the oil pickup back into place.
	Mar 22, 2003 Made overlayed tracings of the T/C and Zetec dust shields that mount between the engine block and the bellhousing. The pink is the T/C dust shield and the blue is the Zetec (two-piece) shield. The short green segments show where the T/C bellhousing outline differs significantly from the shape of the T/C dust shield. Note, for instance, that the dust shield has three starter mounting bolt locations, but the bellhousing has only two. I plan to make a paper template for test fitting from this drawing of a "composite" dust shield which will combine the best elements of each and then make the real one from 18 gauge steel.
	Mar 18, 2003 Received remote oil filter takeoff plate from Canton Racing Products (#22-595). A remote oil filter is required because of the close proximity of the frame. The adapter extends only 2" from the filter mounting surface as opposed to the nearly 4½" of the stock oil filter. The ports are ½" NPT which will be adapted to AN-10 fittings. Here's a look from the underside.
	Mar 13, 2003 Received engine mounts from Joe Irwin. The exhaust side mount (left in photo) fits well to the engine. One of the four mounting locations cannot be used on my newer engine. The intake side mount (right) will require some minor adjustment in the hole locations.
	Mar 11, 2003 Finally figured out how the Raceline water pump idler pulley kit goes together. The pulley in the picture is the idler pulley taken from the alternator mounting bracket. If I have this correctly, then the bolts supplied are a little shorter than I might like, but easy enough to change out. The middle timing belt cover will no longer fit as intended, however, since the idler pulley bracket is designed to bolt directly to the engine. I am thinking I will machine off the back side of the timing cover to the same depth as the bracket thickness so that the bracket will be sandwiched between the cover and the engine.
	Mar 7-9, 2003 Lots of progress cleaning up the intake manifold. Two of the ports are nearly finished. The other two have some serious pitting which cannot be polished out, so I am considering using JB Weld to fill in the pits and then grinding back down to the correct shape.
	Mar 6, 2003 Received order from Raceline. The water rail kit looks very nice. I tried fitting it to the head, but I do not understand how the front end is supposed to attach. On the phone, they mentioned a piece to help with this, but I could find no such thing. Also, the kit for the water pump pulley has no instructions, just a little pile of parts (lower right in photo). I will have to call them back in order to make sense of it. I believe that you use the idler pulley from the stock alternator and mount the bracket to one of the timing cover bolts, but cannot be certain how they intended it to work.
	Mar 4, 2003 Received order from Burton Power. The intake manifold looks nice, but is not flat along its length. I have sanded it down using a piece of plate glass and various grits of wet/dry sandpaper. It now fits the head much better. Also the intake runners are very rough on the inside. I will polish them up. The port on the head side of the manifold is somewhat smaller than in the head, but it would be difficult to enlarge it much without substantially weakening the casting. Package also contained the carburetor O-ring mounts. Brady Joy recommended NOT using the plastic spacer with O-rings on both sides, but to simply use the single "Misab" metal-bonded O-ring instead.
	Mar 2, 2003 Machined a 17mm to 15mm reducer from brass to adapt the Focus alternator pulley to the Geo Metro alternator shaft. Note how much smaller the Geo alternator is than the Focus alternator plus all of its bracketry. I still need to work out exactly how to make the bracket to mount this new alternator and whether or not to use the existing idler pulley that mounts to the engine.
	Feb 26-28, 2003 Moved the engine onto an engine stand. Removed the sheet metal oil pan and alloy sump. Still not sure why the pan is leaking - maybe it will be more obvious once I clean it completely. Marked the T/C bellhousing starter location on the sump and started removing the extra "ear" in that area. Finished removing extra metal from sump where starter fits. Cleaned oil pan side of sump. Cleaned oil pan - leak may be becuase of worn O-ring on drain plug.
	Feb 23, 2003 Made measurements of the bolt locations suitable for engine mounts to send to Joe Irwin. He will compare with the mounts he has made for his earlier engine and make a set for me if it looks like they will line up. Here are full scale drawings of the intake and exhaust mount locations.
	Feb 20, 2003 Talked to Raceline and Burton Power on the phone. Ordered the water rail kit and water pump pulley kit from Raceline and an intake manifold and Dellorto rebuild kits from Burton.
	Feb 13, 2003 Picked up 2.0L Zetec engine from a 2000 Ford Focus at the CWX teminal in Wilsonville. Removed all the excess baggage - power steering pump, exhaust manifold and muffler, air conditioning compressor, intake manifold Engine looks to be in pretty good shape except that the sheet metal sump leaks from somewhere near the drain plug.